• Try to assemble your instrument without touching the keys.
  
  
• Try to stay away from silver polishes or treated polishing cloths. Use a cotton cloth or a microweave cloth available from several manufacturers to keep your instrument reasonably clean.
  
  
• Be gentle when polishing your lip plate to avoid bending it in toward the tube. This creates an instant degradation in the response of your low register.
  
  
• Handle your instrument with care even when it is in the case. An accidental drop can cause severe bending of the posts and mechanism.
  
  
• Check the position of your headcork once a month. This will keep you from playing wildly out of tune in the third register (hopefully!)

• Check the seal on the headcork once a year. Hold the open end closed, put your mouth over the embouchure hole, and suck in to create a vacuum. The vacuum should hold for at least 10 seconds. If it doesn’t hold, you probably need a cork replacement. There is a possibility that the lip plate may be leaking. Don’t rule that out in case the headjoint still does not seal after a cork replacement.
  
  
• Check for pad leaks by playing slowly down your chromatic scale. Do not squeeze the keys at all and you should be able to play straight down to low C or B. If your notes start to get fuzzy, chances are good that the fault lies with the instrument. If the flute is open hole, be sure you are carefully covering the holes!
  
  
• You can check linkages by fingering F, and A and having a friend push the keys directly to the left of these two keys. If your friend’s pushing clears the tone, it is time for repair. Also, if your low G and F speak clearly, but not your F#, this is a good sign that you need some work done.
  
  
• Play Bb all three ways (thumb, first finger, and trill.) They should all respond the same. If not, again it is probably time for repair.
  
  
• If there is significant play or lost motion in the mechanism, it is time for service.
  
  
• If you are a serious player, you should send your instrument yearly for a “check, oil, and adjust.” A qualified technician will thoroughly clean your mechanism and make any necessary adjustments to the padding, linkages, and key heights. They will also recommend any needed repairs if they exist. You should expect to pay in the neighborhood of $150.00 for this service.

Different people’s body chemistry react to flutes in different ways. This is why some flutes turn black and corrode very quickly while others maintain their polish for much longer. Your body chemistry will greatly affect how often you need to oil the mechanism. Usually once a year between trips to the technician will suffice. If you play a Boston flute, most of those companies use carbon steel for the rods. This type rusts if left without oil. If you play a Japanese flute you most likely have stainless steel rods which are not susceptible to these problems.

Should I go to a specialist or general intrument repair shop?

If you play a handmade instrument, or even an intermediate line, you MUST go to a flute specialist. Sometimes a specialist exists at a more general repair shop, but be very sure that the specialist will be the individual working on your instrument. If you play a student instrument, you can get away with using a general band instrument repair shop, but it is likely that you will be much happier with the response of your instrument if you let a specialist work on it. The rule is this: “A well padded student flute will ALWAYS play better than a poorly padded professional instrument.”

My flute got messed up, but I've got an important gig tonight!
What can I do?